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Kontroverse um den "talibanischen" Akt am Cerro Torre

Am 16. Januar 2012 standen Kennedy und Kruk zwei junge, gute Alpinisten auf dem Cerro Torre in Patagonien. Davor hatten sie die viel diskutierte Kompressor Route erstmalig by "fair means" begangen. Die sogenannte Kompressor Route erstellt 1971 durch Cesare Maestri der sich mithilfe eben jenes Kompressors und über 400 Bolts durch die Wand bohrte ist das Corpus delicti, der Mord am Unmöglichen (Messmer). Auf dem Rückweg entfernten die Beiden mehr als 100 der Bolts aus der Wand. Dies sorgte für einen Aufschrei in der Szene und für heftige Kontroversen.

Wir sind hier recht weit weg doch die Diskussionen und die Beweggründe der einzelnen Agitatoren darum, sind recht interessant. Und die Diskussion hats bis in den Spiegel geschafft. Hier eine Zusammenstellung einiger veröffentlichter Artikel aus dem Netz in zeitlicher Reihenfolge.

19.01.2012 Forum, erster Eintrag von Rolando Garibotti   >1800 Kommentare

Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk made a very fast ascent (13 hours from the Col of Patience to the top) of the SE ridge of Cerro Torre on what for sometime we have been calling "fair means" style, which implies not using Maestri's insane bolt ladders. We presume they used some of Maestri's belays but in pitches only clipped 5 bolts, four placed by Ermanno Salvaterra on his 1999 variation and one placed by Chris Geisler on his and Jason's variations last season.
They followed an identical line to the one climbed by Chris and Jason last year, making a pendulum left in Chris's last pitch, to connect a number of discontinuous features over three short pitches to reach the top (5.11+ and A2) .
 During the descent they chopped a good portion of the Compressor route, including the entire headwall and one of the pitches below. The Compressor route is no more.



Did two North American alpinists do the right thing when they took the bolts out of one of Patagonia's most famous climbing routes?


26.01.2012 Kennedy Kruk Release Statement, im Alpinist       


27.01.2012  Interview mit Rolando Garibotti       

Garibotti has been one of the leading Patagonian activists in recent years with numerous ascents of which perhaps the most significant have been his first ascent with Alessandro Beltrami and Ermmano Salvaterra of ‘El Arca de los Vientos’ (on the East and North Faces of Cerro Torre covering much of the ground previously claimed by Cesare Maestri in 1959) and ....


03.02.2012 Artikel von Mario Conti   

Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
Italian alpinist Mario Conti shares his views about the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor route on the SE Face of Cerro Torre.


03.02.2012 Artikel im Spiegel,1518,813002,00.html

Kletterskandal in Patagonien
Metalldiebe am Berg


04.02.2012 Artikel von Colin Haley einem der momentan herausragenden Alpinisten      

The Removal of Cesare Maestri's Bolt Ladders on Cerro Torre
A couple weeks ago, climbers Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk completed the first "fair means" ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, and on their descent successfully removed a large portion of the bolt ladders installed there in 1971 by Cesare Maestri. This has sparked a large debate within the global climbing community, as to whether it was a wise action, and if Kennedy and Kruk had the right to make it.



Cerro Torre and the Mountain as a Work of Art
There has been a lot of debate swirling around Patagonia since the recent "fair means" and free ascents of Cerro Torre, the first by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, the second by David Lama. 


 06.02.212 Artikel von Kelly Cordes

Cerro Torre: Deviations from Reason

Late afternoon January 16, Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk sat on the summit of Cerro Torre, making a decision.

Backup. For starters, let’s be clear: None of us has an inalienable right to summit anything. If you aren’t capable of climbing a peak after a manmade path has been removed, nothing has been stolen from you.

07.02.2012 Artikel von Stefano Lovison mit Unterschriftenliste von Alpinisten       

Taliban on Cerro Torre
We already wrote on Alpine Sketches: around the Cerro Torre the ethics of mountaineering is undergoing a transformation into a religion, with its own priests, warriors and, first of all, with its own demon Cesare Maestri, the person who is seen as the source of all evil.
All this has been dramatically confirmed by the recent events: first the toponym “Col of Conquest”, a place which, despite of all the opinions any of us can have on Maestri, let entire generations of mountaineers dream for years: this place name has been cancelled  by the site, managed by the Chaltén Range’s Guru, Rolando Garibotti; a second and much  more militant and arrogant action followed soon, with the destruction of the Compressor Route by Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy.


21.02.2012 Artikel von Rolando Garibotti in

Cerro Torre - "An Impossible Mountain"
In 1952, after making the first ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy, Frenchman Lionel Terray described the nearby Cerro Torre as "an impossible mountain," a phrase that described well the ice-capped, mile-high granite needle. In early 1968 an Anglo-Argentine team composed of Martin Boysen, Mick Burke, Pete Crew, Jose Luis Fonrouge and Dougal Haston attempted the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, managing to climb 450 meters above the Col of Patience without placing any bolts.



Artikel von Rolando Garibotti in Rock and Ice magazine, 2007.

What’s in a summit?



Nur wenige Tage nach dem Ereignis konnte David Lama (21) die Route komplett frei klettern, trotz der fehlenden Haken.


Viel Spaß beim Lesen.....